We were here as Covid hit. We'd planned to go on to Helsinki and Lapland but couldn't, and had to come back early. I remember having breakfast in a coffee shop and coughing a bit, and because we were English, and England had lots of cases, everyone in the cafe was looking at us like we were ground zero.

The old town is gorgeous. I'd love to go back.

I also remember a beer hall, almost on an industrial estate, having a burger and a beer and watching the world kind of crumble around us. We nearly couldn't get home because of it.